A LITTLE BIT COUNTRY: For his next act at Galileo (1110 21st St. NW; 202-293-7191), Roberto Donna won't be pouring Barolo wines or cooking with truffles, and diners won't have to worry about making reservations, because reservations aren't going to be taken. Indeed, the chef's forthcoming Osteria will be everything Galileo and Laboratorio del Galileo, downtown Washington's luxe Italian dining rooms, are not: simple, modestly priced and focused on Italian country cooking. Donna plans to alternate chef duties between Gianni Spegis, a young sous chef at Laboratorio, and Lynn Foster, a chef there. They will be working in the Osteria, an area near the cheese station and behind the bar at Galileo. We're talking appetizers between $5-$7, lasagna or fettuccine with sausage ragu for $8 and entrees, including a nightly roast, priced no higher than $10. The modest tabs are possible, the chef explains, because like any sensible home cook, he will be using lesser but still tasty ingredients, including chicken legs and meat ends, on his new menu. Don't everybody rush the space, though: When the dinner-only Osteria starts serving later this month, there will be seats for a mere 20.

COMINGS, GOINGS AND GROWINGS: Sous chef Tom Meyer takes over the kitchen at Pesce (2016 P St. NW; 202-466-3474) following the departure of Bobby Beard, who recently left the seafood restaurant in Dupont Circle for the modern American kitchen at New Heights (2317 Calvert St. NW; 202-234-4110) in Woodley Park . . . . Jamie Stachowski, late of eCitie in McLean (and before that, Pesce), returns to downtown Washington with Restaurant Kolumbia (1801 K St. NW; 202-331-5551), a moody dining room where crowd-pleasers such as roast chicken ($24) stuffed with beet greens and Gorgonzola and lamb chops ($32) enlivened with a horseradish crust are offered in what used to be the ice-blue Le Tarbouche . . . . City Lights of China (1731 Connecticut Ave. NW; 202-265-6688) adds a two-story dining room -- albeit a storefront away from the underground original, at 1727 Connecticut Ave., which retains the same name, the same menu (even the same phone number!) but sets itself apart with a sushi bar. Fresh from a visit to the new kid on the block, my vote goes to the familiar stir-fried asparagus with garlic sauce and kung pao shrimp.

Roberto Donna's next act: Osteria.