Dinner in 25 Minutes

Eggs in Hell

2 to 4 servings

Rare is the kitchen that does not contain eggs and jarred pasta sauce, makings for this economical dinner from food writer M.F.K. Fisher. She served it over dry toast, though we prefer it over pasta.

Adapted from "The Art of Eating" (Wiley, 2004):

4 tablespoons olive oil

1 clove garlic

1 yellow or white onion, chopped

21/2 to 3 cups your favorite jarred or homemade pasta sauce

1 teaspoon minced mixed fresh herbs (such as basil or thyme; optional)

1 teaspoon minced fresh parsley (optional)

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

4 eggs

Parmesan or pecorino cheese

In a saucepan over medium heat, heat the oil. Halve the garlic lengthwise and cook until lightly browned. Add the onion and cook, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 minutes. Add the pasta sauce and herbs, if using, and cook, uncovered, stirring often, for about 15 minutes. Taste and season with salt and pepper to taste. Remove and discard the garlic.

Break the eggs into this sauce. The eggs will sink in slightly. If you prefer a hard-cooked yolk, spoon the sauce over the top of the eggs; if you prefer a runny yolk; leave the eggs bare. Cover the pan, reduce the heat to low and heat until the eggs are cooked to the desired degree of doneness, 5 to 10 minutes.

Serve, if desired, topped with grated or shaved cheese.

Ingredients too variable for meaningful analysis.

-- Renee Schettler

On Its Way Back, as Soon as the Paperwork's Done

Those familiar with the rich, creamy texture and distinct tang of Total brand yogurt, imported from Greece, may have noticed recently that something is very, very wrong.

The yogurt is gone. Not just temporarily out of stock. But nowhere to be found. Individual containers of whole-fat, nonfat and sheep's milk yogurt -- and the accompanying tags on the shelf -- have vanished.

Why? The yogurt lacked the proper paperwork.

In mid-August, the company that imports Total, FAGE-USA Corp., was informed by the Food and Drug Administration that it was in violation of the Interstate Milk Shippers (IMS) agreement, a regulation that pertains to all grade-A milk products shipped between states. The product failed to display an IMS number, which indicates that the product has passed the required inspection procedures.

The yogurt, which is distributed in more than 20 states, was immediately ordered off of shelves and has been unavailable in most states for nearly two months.

According to FAGE-USA spokesperson Antonias Maradakis, the company is working to remedy the situation -- which entails sending U.S. inspectors to the company's plant in Greece -- and anticipates having the product back on shelves in late January.

SHOPPING CART | Licorice Lottery

There may be lots of basic black licorice out there. But Whips and Twizzlers lack imagination.

Other licorice is full of surprises: the seductively chewy texture of a soft drop, the beehive-shaped licorice flavored with honey, Dutch licorice with its overwhelming smack of salt. And the chewy, smooth-tasting Kookaburra twist from Australia, which consistently outsells the rest of the nearly two dozen varieties of licorice found at Dean & DeLuca.

$8 per pound. Dean & DeLuca, 3276 M St. NW; call 202-342-2500.

SCHOTT'S FOOD & DRINK MISCELLANY

Author: Ben Schott

Publisher: Bloomsbury, $14.95

Coca-Cola logos the world over. Imperial to metric conversions. How to convey, in five languages, whether you prefer your steak very rare, rare, medium or well done. The contents of Captain Nemo's Larder. And the lyrics to Chiquita Banana.

Like the kitchen junk drawer, this slender volume contains a curious assortment of odds and ends, some of which you'd be lost without and others that may never serve you save for a measure of amusement.

As with "Schott's Original Miscellany," this slender volume for the inquisitive minded is written with flair, brevity and pomp.

117

The number of times the average American ordered takeout from a restaurant last year

-- NPD Group's Annual Report

on Eating Patterns in America

TODAY'S TIP

To clean a blender jar, fill it half full of hot water and add a few drops of liquid dish detergent. Cover with the lid, turn it on and run for about 30 seconds. Pour out the soapy water and rinse well.

-- From the October issue of Everyday Food magazine

TO DO

FRIDAY: Reception and luncheon in honor of Washington Post columnist Robert L. Wolke, winner of the 2005 James T. Grady -James H. Stack Award for Interpreting Chemistry for the Public. Space is limited. $25 includes tax and tip. 12:15 p.m. National Press Club, 529 14th St. NW. Call 202-872-4451.

FRIDAY-SATURDAY: Day of the Dead gala dinner and cooking class at Rosa Mexicano restaurant. Dinner: Friday, 7 p.m., $75 includes tax and tip; cooking class: Saturday, 10 a.m., $58 includes lunch. 575 7th St. NW. Call 202-654-7010. MONDAY: Bourassa Vineyards wine dinner at Amerigo restaurant. Special guest: vineyard owner Victor Bourassa. $75 includes tax and tip. 7 p.m. 1381-A Beverly Rd., McLean. Call 703-893-6886.

MONDAY: Demonstration, food tasting and book signing with "The New Best Recipe" author and editor of Cook's Illustrated Christopher Kimball. Sponsored by L'Academie de Cuisine and Politics and Prose. $65 includes signed copy of the book. 7 p.m. Montgomery College, Theatre Arts Arena, 51 Mannakee St., Rockville. Call 301-986-9490.

RESERVE NOW

NOV. 6: Champagne festival at the Embassy of France featuring tastings of 20 champagnes houses and food tastings from 18 local restaurants. Benefits cultural activities organized by the Maison Francaise and the French American Cultural Foundation. $95 in advance. 7 p.m. 4101 Reservoir Rd. NW. Call 202-944-6091.

NOV. 7: Discussion and book signing with "Feast" author Nigella Lawson at Olsson's Books & Records, Arlington/Courthouse. Free tickets available at the store on that day. 3 p.m. 2111 Wilson Blvd. Call 703-525-4227.

PLEASE NOTE: Space limitations sometimes prevent Food from publishing all submissions. For possible inclusion, send notices -- including organization name, date, cost, time, address and phone number -- to: To Do, Food, The Washington Post, 1150 15th St. NW, Washington D.C., 20071 or food@washpost.com. Submissions must be received at least 14 days prior to publication date.