More true than original, it still has to be said: You don't have to be Jewish to like the Kosher Kitchen. You have to be willing to drive out to the Eldorado Towers in White Oak and probably get lost in a maze of high-rise apartment corridors. You have to appreciate hearty stews, somtimes spiced with cumin and other Middle Eastern touches, or rich chicken soup with a matzo balls, onion-scented chopped liver, borwn rice and fresh vegetables. You have to enjoy simple surroundings - gutsy yellow walls relieved by a few posters and woodcuts - and maybe like to share a community table. You can't mind a few children in your dining room or a peasant-dressed waitress more friendly than polished. And you can't object to eating - stuffing yourself, if you will - for a mere $4 or $5. Kosher Kitchen is a meeting place, a non-profit collective, and the only public restaurant in the area which is strictly kosher. It is a folk-dancing center Thursday evenings, a coffee house with live music Saturday evenings, a lecture hall Sunday evenings, a drop-in center for senior citizens Tuesday through Thursday afternoons, and an ethnic night club once a month (February Iraqi, March Greek, April French). That is in addition to being a restaurant most other evenings, with food that any Jewish mother would be proud to serve her children.

Kosher Kitchen, 11200 Lockwood Dr., White Oak. Open Monday through Thursday 5:30 to 8:30 p.m., Sunday 11:30 a.m. to 9 p.m., and for felafel and hummous with entertainment Thursday, Saturday and Sunday from 9 p.m. Closed for Friday and Saturday dinner. 593-3772.