When a restaurant that looks like a converted doughnut shop has people waiting in line, you can guess that it is good. And so Anita's is. There is a larger branch in Fairfax, which I have not yet tried. But the Vienna luncheonette dishes in large, hearty platters of "New Mexico Style" Mexican food better than we usually expect to find around Washington. The tortilla chips are paper-thin and freshly fried, wonderful to dip in the tangy red sauce on the table. Since the food is mildly spiced, you may make good use of that sauce. Tacos are meaty, again mild, but none the worse for that.Chili relleno may be the best dish, crisply battered and oozing with cheese. Try crunchy, cigarette-shaped taquitos, or large, generously stuffed buritos. With the dishes come piquant rosy Spanish rice and nondescript refried beans. You can order from several mix-and-match platters, but don't go out of your way to try the enchiladas, which are a soggy mess spooned from a huge lasagne pan. This is basic, earthy food served in a great frenzy in a room wedged with a dozen tables and four tiffany lamps. And it is pretty good, which is saying a lot for Washington Mexican food.