Just as Chinese restaurants have grown opulent, Indian restaurants are on their way to being elegant places to dine.The first such Indian restaurant is Apana, a very handsome dining room set with brown tablecloths and candles, with balloon wine glasses - which serve well for beer - and with lovely Indian primitive paintings on the brown and rust walls.Plants and intricately patterned fabrics on the banquettes add even more lushness. The service and the food live up to the setting. Waiters are professional and readily guide you through the menu. And the food is beautifully garnished with enormous onion rings, tomatoes and greenery. As soon as you are seated, warm crisp pappadums appear. Of the seven fritters and kebabs which are offered as appetizers, lightly battered and fried shrimp bhujia are exceptional. Also good are the large, triangular, meat and vegetable-stuffed samosas, bland until dipped in the wonderful, dark brown, tart and peppery tamarind sauce. Curries here are not powerfully hot unless you request them or fuel them with chutney. But they are distinctive, revealing layers of flavors and interesting contrasts such as tender beef with crisp nuts. And the puri here are nearly as light and puffy as helium balloons. Prices are, of course, higher than at plainer Indian restaurants. But the menu includes such delicacies as trout stuffed with lobster.