This looks like an Olde English version of its next-door neighbor, Tia Maria. Both of them are decorated to the hilt, with some knick knack in every nook, tile or flowered wallpaper in every cranny. Overdone - maybe - but nevertheless fetching. It is a large space cut into cozy dining area, and there is plenty on the walls to occupy your eyes between courses. From one room you overlook the water, in another you can see the sweep of the kitchen. The menu choices are roast beef (thick cut), roast beef (thin cut), or roast beef (outside cut), accompanied by a progressive groaning board of appetizers (oversalted, overthickened soup or a big plate of icy green salad tossed with baby shrimp and chopped egg), crunchy Yorkshire pudding, over-nutmegged creamed spinach or some other vegetable, creamed corn sweet enough to be dessert, and a pleasant horseradish-flavored whipped cream. The roast beef is good enough, and servings are generous. The wood tables, the well-modulated Elizabethan music, Oriental carpets conspire to make the food taste better. But don't press your luck with the trifle doused with whipped uncream, or the Irish coffee topped with the same stuff plus a straw and a cherry. The mass-produced glamor works only as long as the final bill is moderate, so stick to the basics.