Far from trying to be a downtown restaurant in the suburbs, Chalet de la Paix capitalizes on its homeyness, with wealthered wood on the walls and a relaxed tone. The hostess welcomes guests warmly, and the staff continues the pampering, with very professional style and efficiency. This is the only restaurant in the Washington area where I have seen women dining - as opposed to eating - alone. The wine list is of modest size but well chosen, and the staff is helpful in choosing wines. Though the restaurant is small, tables are spaced to allow privacy. There are these extra touches - from flowers in coppr pots, and tall white candles, to the waiters who know how to be attentive without hovering - that make one look forward to dining at Chalet de la Paix. If only the food were so reliable. On a single evening they can serve a superb mussel soup, its spiciness muffled by cream, and a turtle soup so thin it tastes of little but sherry, dark mustard sauce is as good a version as you may find. But from the same kitchen comes veal Orloff with a bitter mushroom puree which destroys the cream sauce that blankets it. The light, beautifully balanced orange sauce on the duck does not compensate for the bird's soggy texture. In my experience, the accompanying potatoes and vegetables have been superior to the main dishes; in fact, they have been particularly good. For dessert, skip the traditional leaden tart, and try, if they have it, the frozen raspberry mousse served in a coconut shell. It looks like something from Trader Vic's, and tastes as good as you keep hoping Trader Vic's desserts will taste.