Arlington may not be the country, but Chez Andree is nevertheless an unpretenious country restaurant. You hang your own coat in the hall, then are seated in one of several small rooms divided by trellises and hung with kitchen implements. Old patrons have watched the family grow up, but there are still enough daughters at home to help papa run the restaurant. They know the food and its preparation, are intimately familiar with the extensive wine list, and handle the wines better than nearly any waiter in town, carefully peeling away the cap and wiping the neck of the bottle. While the wine list has no obvious bargains, its breadth is impressive. As for the menu, it is fairly brief, emphasizing organ meats more than most. They cook brains beautifully, slice them and brown them just so that the inside remains creamy, and sauce them with brown butter and capers. They handle fish proficiently, and bring meats as rare as you request. But the sauces lack finesse, and you are best served when you order simple dishes. If mussel soup is on the menu, try it. Portions are large and come with vegetables and a salad which is large, crisp, and dressed with terrific garlic mayonnaise, so good you may want to ask for a dish of mayonnaise to slather on their excellent bread. As for dessert, the meringue with ice cream and red currant sauce is probably the best choice. Pleasant, unpretentious, Chez Andrre is not the bargain it once was, but you eat heartily in one of the last French family-run restaurants, and they serve you well.