Both branches of this restaurant are handsomely appointed. The Rossalyn branch has the advantage of a river view, while the Bethesda one has its space appealingly divided into small rooms, and the lazy susans on the tables facilitate sharing dishes with large groups. Service at the Bethesda branch, particularly on a crowded Sunday evening, is undependable, as are the dishes. Although there are unusual menu choices, such as duck with abalone soup, what emerges may be greasy, bland, disillusioning. If you enjoy hearty, peasanty food and don't mind greasiness, try the thick noodles called chow foon, which don't appear on many Washington menus. Lemon duck is a good choice, the crips fried poultry served with a lightly sweet lemon sauce. Perhaps the best dish is fung wong sam siz, a mixture of julienned crunchy vegetables with abalone, chicken, and roast pork in a tantalizing subtle sauce, surrounded by a fluff of deep-fried shredded egg. China Garden also serves as impressive array of dim sum for weekend brunches; most of them are very good, and the sweet pastry known as a custard tart is outstanding. But if you order standard dishes at China Garden - won ton soup, moo shi pork and such - you will discover how tasteless carelessly prepared Chinese food can be.