The two dinning rooms bear a family resemblance, both having dark, masculine themes, and both with tables arranged to afford considerable privacy. Furthermore, both have the same kitchen, though the Sea Catch menu is seafood-oriented, with a few meat dishes, and the Jockey Club is vice versa. It would be hard to find fault with the service in either restaurant. But these restaurants have been undergoing a change, with the loss of the Jockey Club's maitre d'hotel and the kitchen's sous-chef, so my impressions may be outdated. The food has tended to be better at lunch, and at its best it has been exquisite. Scallops nicoise, lightly sauteed with lemon peel, tomatoes, garlic and black olives, have shown that seafood at its best. Shrimp New Orleans-style recreated the russet of southern sauce, just short of overpowering with horseradish, hot peppers, garlic and lemon. Their crab imperial is famous. And their skill with meats is no less. But they could pay more attention to their side dishes instead of serving a soggy mishmash of a green vegetable or waterlogged potatoes; they can, after all, braise cellery beautifully when they put their mind to it. Their senegalaise soup has been known to be too thin, their lobster thermidor's sauce too thick and overlwhelmed by Dijon mustard. On bad days the sauces are floury and bland. But even on those days you can find a marvelous apple tart, its puff pastry light, its filling nicely undersweetened. And the creme caramel could hardly be better. Keep watching this space.