Most French restaurants in town look imposing or nondescript; Le Bagatelle, alone, could be called pretty. Divided into small rooms by trellises and partitions with windows, the dining rooms hint of a very elegant garden. It certainly looks the setting for a pampered life. Nobody knows how to pamper better than the staff at Le Bagatelle, but it helps if you are a celebrity. Even if you are treated as part of the furniture, though, you can hardly help enjoying the food. They do particularly well with fish, as exemplified by the bass with red wine sauce; despite a few stray bones, it has been precisely cooked and perfectly fresh, napped with a sauce dark and glossy, yet light on the tongue, and decorated with a lovely fluted mushroom. They pay more attention than most to the vegetables which accompany their meals. While the wine list is expensive, it offers some excellent choices at the low end, and the expertise to guide you towards them. And, alone among French restaurants in town, Le Bagatelle presents an exquisite choice of desserts which are made in the house rather than bought from a bakery. The pastries are fine, the berries get a ladle of velvety sabayan, and one might be lucky enough to encounter a delicate frozen bombe drizzled with their own chocolate sauce.