The long-awaited new restaurant of chef Jean-Pierre Goyenvalle was under careful scrutiny in its first months, particularly when it inaugurated a new high for restaurant prices in the area. While there have been complaints about haughty service and flawed cuisine, they come very seldom these days; problems with the acoustics, however, are the Achilles' heel of this very fine French restaurant. The room is both grand and personal, with Jean-Pierre's won collection of antique platters against striped wallpaper and dark wood. Table settings are extravagant in the quality of the glassware and china, set off by single roses in silver bud vases. And Jean-Pierre has gone to great lengths to find fresh delicacies - wild boar, vension, muscovy duck, truffles, foie gras. So, to justify the expenditure, one would concentrate on what is special to eat; save your appetite for onion soup and Cassar salad for elsewhere. Sea bass in a flaky, nutty-flavored puff pastry is stuffed with a mirepoix of carrots, celery and onions, napped with a white butter sauce. This exquisite dish can be ordered as a main course for two, an appetizer for three. Try the rabbit pate hot or cold, in either case rich and gamy yet subtle. On and on - a very piquant rabbit in mustard, a rack of lamb for one, scented with rosemary and surrounded with a lovely garden of braised fennel, buttery spinach leaves, mushrooms. Veal served as thick chops or thin scallops, both ivory and cooked precisely right. There are two wine lists, the more private one with wines in short supply but not necessarily more expensive; while prices tend to be high, the lists have some good buys at about $15. For dessert, try the crepes souffles, the thinnest of crepes crusted with golden almonds and hazlenuts, stuffed with an airy souffle. As with any star show, there are days when it misses. And the dining rooms get rushed. But at its best there is not better in town.