Where is Giuseppina when I need her? I know from previous experience that Nathan's wonderful woman chef can make pasta worthy of sonnets. But such creations have not landed on my plate lately. The menu offers "our own delicious spaghetti" carbonara, but mine was packaged pasta, a disappointment despite the zeaty bacon, onion and egg sauce. Fettucine Alfredo - once ethereal - came to me as leaden, uneven strips of noddles in a puddle of unseasoned cream. And at lunch, even worse, the noodles were brittle and tasteless, an unnerving bright yellow. Lunch often tastes like what didn't sell at dinner the night before. This back-of-the-bar dining room, nicely assessorized with Toulouse-Lautrec posters and single flowers in champagne bottles is very urbane and quite comfortable. The staff is interchangeable with the Georgetown crowd which patronizes the restaurant, so it is a stylish scene. To enjoy it at its best, order lemony squid rolled in fresh bread crumbs and sauteed in butter, or plae veal. The pasta is sauced with the lightest, freshest tasting tomato sauce. But the scampi with garlic, generously as they are served, are mushy, frozen baby lobster tails, and vegetables from artichoke vinaigrette to asparagus have been weary-looking. As for dessert, the most worthwhile ared liquid - cappuccinos spiked with liquers and topped with whipped cream.