If you have any doubt that the Palm is a meat and potatoes restaurant, try to order the linguine with clams. The waiter probably won't let you. But the warnings are even more evident. Ceiling fans whirring over green-and-white checked tablecloths, the walls covered with caricatures. All it needs is sawdust on the floor. The waiters may not be as old as the legendary New York steakhouse waiters, but they are well versed in the tough-but-efficient steakhouse manner, and they carry your silverware in their pockets as if they were born with a steak knife poised. Besides steak - filet has been best of late - and potatoes, order vegetables, particularly the zesty creamed spinach and then, crisp fried onions. Either is a meal in itself. Clams - raw or casino with lemon butter and bacon - are a good start. As for their famed lobster, it tends to be over four pounds and plenty to share for two, is cooked exquisitely, but demands an outrageous price. When is a lobster worth nearly $50? On the other hand, nothing on the small wine list is over $13.50. You won't have room - or maybe money - but end the meal anyway with the ultimate creamy cheesecake, which, like the wine, benefits from being served at the right temperature.