Tiberio has had its ups and downs, but through it all the pasta has been unfailingly superb - fragile noodles with soft, subtle meat stuffings and rich cream sauces. The cannelloni, tortellini, and agnolotti - it is hard to think of them as starchy dishes, so light are they. Desserts, too, at Tiberto are works of talent, though they are too often left to grow soggy through the day. Nevertheless, the zuppa inglese, sopping with rum, is a complex construction of meringue, custard, jam, candied fruit and sponge cake. The almond tart is crunchy from its cookie crust, profiteroles are laden with brandied chocolate sauce and whipped cream. But in between pasta and dessert? You take your chances, though lately your chances are good. The choice is difficult, but veal is usually excellent, especially in a brandied cream and mushroom sauce, or breaded and fried with a core of Parma ham and Fontina cheese. The menu extends from an Italian version of chicken Kiev to an Italian version of lobster Americaine, with Italian quenelles and Italian duck with orange sauce along the way. If you are reminded of French cuisine's Italian origins, that is only just. But there are the zesty touches of oregano, garlic, parmessan. Even the decore, a kind of whitewashed contemporary splendor, with pink roses on the tables, has a piquant touch of the electrical wiring used for a decorative effect. Like the pasta, the decor and the service benefit from a light, deft touch.