On a busman's holiday I discovered a bargain in New York at - yes, you read this right - the Four Seasons. Of course, bargains are relatives. But after 10 p.m., the supper menu offers full meals - appetizer, main course, salad, dessert and coffee - for $15, which is about half what the same meal would cost before that hour. And, from the creamy artichoke soup through a sensational individual coffee souffle, the meal hit enough high notes that even its flaws didt't dampen our pleasure.

ON to Boston, the modern Gournet restaurant's sixty-five seats are so much in demand that the alley restaurant never bothered to reindtall its sign once vandals destroyed it. No bargain - complete dinners are $15 to $16 weekdays, main cources that price weekends, when the preparations are more elaborate - the menu is small but original and exciting, with disg hes like duck breast and quenelle of duck with green apples and green peppercorns, and delicate homemade sausages of chicken, garnished with shaved radishes. Beautifully prepared vegetables accompany appetizerss and main dishes; in all, the meals are stunning. What is most interesting, considering the quality of preparation, is that they are produced by students of the Modern Gournet cooking school, some of whome have had but one year of training, and all of whom lookbarely more than 20 years old.

The big news in hungry Boston this season is the reopening of the old Quincy Market downtown, stall selling food and crafts. It looks like an all-day party, with lunchers munching and, in the evening, singles mingling, You can sit in real restaurant or nibble as you walk along, choosing dillsauced herring, just-opened oysters, a pillowy fried dough, all butter chocolate chip cookies baked before your eyes, lobster rolls, frozen yogurt in every flavour, sandwiches big enough for two meals, vegetables burgers, souvlaki, tortes and tarts and on and on. But, like w White Flint's Eatery, what I saw most people eating was what looked least enticing: limp pizza and gummy chow mein and egg roll platters, although there was a lot snacking on fresh-fruit kebabs.