Traditionalists can skip this one. But adventure-seekers should plan to spend a little time around Capitol Hill Wine and Cheese. Let go. Take a chance. Try a Jelly Belly in Ice Blue Mint. Or Green Apple. Or Country Melon. Work up to Peanut Butter. These tiny deceivers look like any old jelly beans, maybe smaller, a touch more chic in their coloration. But if you put them in a big jar and asked people to guess how many there are, nobody would suspect they were unique. Taste one, or ten, or a handful. They burst - explode - with flavors that taste real. Tangerine tastes freshly squeezed; the coffee could keep you awake; coconut has a creamy subtlety. As for the root-beer, it brings black memories of Paloops if you are old enough, and the mint cleans your breath. The fifteen flavors, from chocolate pudding to cotton candy, are bound to develop their individual fan clubs. Go and taste, mix and match, gorge and play and take a bag to your dentist in self defense.
Jelly Bellies. Capitol Hill Wine and Cheese, 611 Pennsylvania Ave. Se. $2.99 a pound. Open Monday through Saturday, 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.; Sunday, noon to 5 p.m. 546-4600. CAPTION: Illustration, [WORD ILLEGIBLE] Illustration by Bethann Thamburgh