If you are on a diet, you'll miss it all at the Little Europe, for the chef has a way with potatoes. Pancakes, French fries, mashed - he always comes through. Sometimes he raises veal paprikash to the sublime and his pastries are triumphs. In fact, plums could have been invented just for Little Europe's rich, cakey plum pastry. He treats veal kindly in the wiener schnitzel, not breading it too heavily or cooking it too long, though when the schnitzel is done hunter-style, with dark mushroom sauce, it is anything but improved. If stroganoff and sauerbraten were meant to be as heavy and bland as potatoes, they would be good, but the attempt is misguided. And the chicken paprikash bears little resemblance to the wonderful veal version. At least you should end your meal with good dark coffee or relax with a glass of hot clove-and-cinnamon-scented red wine. Dinner here is an undemanding affair, with bustling waitresses making up for a slow kitchen. Despite flossy touches - black velvet panels with gold-colored heraldry on red flocked walls - this has the friendly feeling of a neighborhood restaurant and bar; in fact, the bar covers about a third of the dining room. It dispenses draft beer and Hungarian wine by the glass and a good deal of camaraderie. With main dishes averaging $5 to $6, it is an easy place to find down-to-earth food and occasional heavenly dishes.