Hungry Hilda's. 5117 MacArthur Blvd. NW. Open Monday through Friday, 10 a.m. to midnight; Saturday, 11 a.m. to midnight; Sunday, 3 to 9 p.m. 244-9191.

Since Hilda Eiber grew up in the restaurant business in Munich, it would be surprising is she ever went hungry. And since she opened Hungry Hilda's carry-out on MacArthur Boulevard, that neighborhood isn't likely to go hungry either. She and her children fill the block with smells of pates and quiches, crepes and soups, nut tortes and cheese-cakes. G The menu is eclectic, from subs to salmon in aspic, with a changing variety of plats du jour - coq au vin, beef rouladen - and everything from pate-stuffed boned ducks to vegetarian dishes available to order ahead. She dresses up simple foods like a fried turbot sandwich, with homemade dill sauce. Her chicken liver pate packs a cognac punch and a sweet aftertaste of currants. She makes her own yogurt and stirs fresh fruit into it. Her lasagne is studded with black olives; her salads are based on leeks or parsnips or cauliflower, as well as the more obvious shrimp or tuna. She turns salmon into gravlax, asparagus and Roquefort into quiches. Something is always cooking at Hungry Hilda's, and it is always something interesting.