Open Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 10:30 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 4 a.m. Carry out only.

Scott's has everything but tables and chairs. It has a real barbecue grill consuming half the premises, where meats smoke over the hickory logs you see piled under the window. It has a pleasant staff. And it has some of the best North Carolina chopped barbecue you can find outside that state, with crusty bits minced into the moist meat. Admittedly, the chopped barbecue is at its best when it has just been chopped, which is not always the case. But at its worst it is still very good. So is the beef, with the smoke flavor permeating the entire, thin-sliced brisket. And so are the large, meaty ribs. The meats have been obviously slow-smoked and well basted. Their sauce is variable, one day thin and light, another day more tomato-thickened, but in either case it is rather good, and the hot version is adequately scorching.

So that you don't have to live by barbecue alone, Scott's fills your dome-covered plastic plates with bacon-rich greens and red beans with rice or with spicy-sweet, freshly crunchy coleslaw and perky potato salad studded with sweet pickle. Then there is the cornbread, which tastes as if it were basted with lard, as greasy and gritty and delicious as cornbread gets, showing what you can do with a Jiffy mix and a heavy hand with grease. You could get, as an alternative, that old Southern favorite, Wonder bread, if you are too timid for the cornbread.

Scott's has its dead weight, notably the bland, floury chicken with rice and the stewy-textured barbecued chicken. It also has pigs' feet, which are not everybody's meat, and a pretty good lemony sweet potato pie. Scott's also has delectable prices, from $2.75 for a chopped barbecue platter to $3.85 for four meaty spareribs, and sandwiches for even less. Its party rates make you want to give a party -- or settle in for a barbecue marathon all by yourself.