Open Monday through Saturday, 6 a.m. to 3 p.m.; Sunday, 8:30 a.m. to 1 p.m. Breakfast served at all times. No credit cards. The country in Fran's Country Kitchen refers to the radio music and the food rather than the location, which is right in the path of enough flannel-shirted workers to keep the eighteen seats full. But the morning crowd moves fast through the mountains of food - the enormous western omelets, the Fran McMuffins (egg, ham or bacon and cheese on toasted muffin), the coffee in thick white mugs (refills fifteen cents; originals also fifteen cents). Two cook-waitresses shuttle between the tables and the grill, as determinedly cheery as the wallpaper (teakettles and pineapples). On the counter are the day's baked goods: enormous crisp and buttery chocolate chip cookies (twenty cents - take that, YMCA!), freshly made round sugar doughnuts (two for twenty-five cents), streusel coffeecake laced with butter and cinnamon (sixty-five cents), pies worthy of nostalgia. But, to start at breakfast's beginning, the eggs are a rush job, taste fine and cost only seventy-five cents for the first (with toast). The menu listing goes up to three eggs, and specifies that each additional egg costs twenty-five cents, so one can't help imagining a dozen scrambled ($3.50) piled high in front of one of the burly eaters. One would hardly stop at eggs, though. There are grits, ham, bacon, mildly seasoned sausage cakes, and good crisp scrapple, which is hard to find this far south of Philadelphia. The pancakes ($1.10) are light, and the homemade whole wheat or white bread (thirty cents) is sliced thickly and grilled in butter. In this imperfect world, it is not surprising to find flaws - paprika-tinged, soggy homefries and creamed chipped beef with too little beef and seasoning, saved only by a fine fluffy biscuit. Fran's serves good food with good nature, and tempts you to return to try the "Homemade Chili in Season" even if you don't know when chili is in season.