Breakfast daily, 8 to 11 a.m. No credit cards. The setting is perfect after a hard night before, being darkly paneled, lined with booths that make you feel protected, served by waiters who walk softly and wear easy-on-the-eyes green jackets. It is a place for reading the morning paper, if only because the kitchen is slow. What's good about Martin's Tavern breakfasts is the coffee. Also, the pancakes and sausage deserve no complaints. But the barely scrambled eggs are made dry and tasteless, no doubt to match the pre-cut, paprika-tinged hash browns. The breakfast steak is a tough, dry hunk of meat that will test your jaws. And you may have to gather enough energy to request a coffee refill. Given the prices ($1.40 for an egg, $3.95 for eggs with breakfast meats, hash browns, toast, juice and coffee; the steak and eggs breakfast $5.25), more could have been made of this project. And the menu might have been made less threatening; it presents the sort of situation where it is cheaper to order breakfast with three pancakes than with two, because you are charged a la carte for two. Who can cope with that in the morning? It certainly requires another cup of coffee first. Find the waiter.