The first of the French cafes, Cafe de Paris has grown somewhat seedy in recent days, now being in need of paint. But it still has a rather cozy Parisian air, dependent primaily on soccer memorabilia and a high population of T-shirts. La Patisserie, newer and small, is a brighter spot but is basically a coffee-and-pastry shop with a couple of salads if you are not looking for dessert. The food the two cafes have in common is identical, so one review serves for both. And the food at both has less to recommend than to warn about. Take, for instance, the $2.75 champagne cocktail at the cafe. Medicinal. The quiche: light and probably good at first baking, but soggy by evening. Steak tartare: oily, and tasting only of spices rather than intrinsic flavor. Four imaginative salads of chicken, potato, zucchini or rigatoni: soggy and overseasoned. French hamburger: well done rather than rare, and more an onionburger than a hamburger. Pastries: lovely but leaden, dry, bland. But the news is not all bad. The fat french fries are still wonderful, and the cafe sandwich may be made with watery precooked chicken, but it is a great amusement, being about nine inches tall and stuffed with creamily dressed salad, egg, bacon, tomato, and real flair.