An unlikely setting, this, for such a wine list of depth and character and unexpected bargains. The several rooms have a roadhouse flair, and the food has its ups and downs. But Chez Andree revolves around wine. The tantalizing choice of $20 to $30 bottles hardly fits the inelegant setting, but the choice of Medocs at $7.25, or California wines at $5.25 adds significant pleasure to the meal. The food is less of a bargain. The menu warns that a bread and butter charge of fifty cents will be added when ordering appetizer only. Peculiar, unless you have learned that appetizers are the best dishes. Mussels provencal, for instance, are nothing short of superb, barely cooked and zestfully seasoned without being gauche about the garlic. Venison pate is robust and well-balanced. And the salad comes with a wonderful mayonnaise dressing, outrageously garlicked, that has developed its own fan club and serves as a dip for your bread if you are smart enough to hold onto it through the meal. As for the coq au vin, the least expensive main dish at $7.50, it deserves no more complete description than chicken in gravy. Poached salmon would be better choice, because the fish are brought in fresh, and the hollandaise is tangy, if oddly starchy, but beware that the fish not be seriously overcooked. Dessert? Don't bother.