If awards were given for the restaurant that made the greatest strides in a single year, La Bergerie would be a strong contender. It always was a comfortable place to dine, with its soft curved banquettes and large, well-spaced tables.And it always was a restaurant that treated its guests with particular consideration. But in the last year, the menu has been revised to include many Basque dishes, and now has some of the most interesting possibilities in town. The cooking also seems to have livened to produce some of the best-executed dishes. La parillade des pecheurs, for instance, is an aromatic display of rock-fish, scallops, shrimps, clams and mussels in a heady wash of tomato sauce with parsley and garlic, each item being tender and zesty, not even needing the punch of the pale coral spiced mayonnaise that accompanies it. Pilgrimages are made to La Bergerie solely for confit de canard, the duck richly seasoned in a powerful brown sauce, with sauteed potatoes and mushrooms. While chicken with oysters is less forthright, it is cooked to a lovely moistness, and the oysters and shreds of mushroom add a pleasant note to the cream sauce. La Bergerie does well with soups, particularly garbure and fish soup, but its scallop terrine was watery and oversalted. Two interesting cheeses, particularly the chiberta, are worth tasting. But dessert here in a specialty, from Izarra souffle or souffleed crepes to very fine pastries. While the almond-stuffed galette Basque is difficult to resist, remember that La Bergerie is nearly alone in restaurants where one dares to risk ordering a napoleon and expect it to be light and crisp. Like a growing number of restaurants, La Bergerie offers fixed-price menus ($11 and $15) as well as a la carte, and they are very good meals for the money.