Among reasonably priced French restaurants one often has the choice of eating reasonably well all the time or taking the chance that the food will be very good or very bad on any given day. La Brochette, then, is for the adventurers who are willing to risk a disappointing meal in the gamble for a delicious bargain. Here are some clues: don't bother with the brochettes, which are among the most expensive and least successful dishes; don't order too many courses until you see how large their portions are; stick closely to the daily specials, which are often quite special. And, if you are offended by fakery, whether of gas fires or plastic bricks, be gratified that the taste in the decor is not reflected on the plate. More specifically, order venison if it is available, and mussels, particularly if they are in a smooth, rich sauce poulette. Tread carefully among the veal dishes, and save room for creme brulee. Don't expect much from the wine list. And don't expect the larder to be as extensive as the menu implies. You can eat well - and quickly at lunch if that is required - and always find something new and much that is seasonal on the menu.