Just a country inn, it calls itself, but this country inn demonstrates an imagination and commitment to quality that few downtown restaurants can muster. Thus, though it is a long ride from the dining center of Washington, its reservations are usually filled two weeks ahead. It is worth planning for two weeks for the likes of tantalizingly perfumed venison pate, of crabmeat mousse enclosing a heart of lump crabmeat and laved with lobster sauce. The vegetables are fresh and crisply cooked, lightly herbed. Also fresh and crisp is the salad. On and on: salmon souffle an interplay of moist fish filet and feathery souffle topping, duck in a tangy, robust sauce with croutons rather than the more routine orange sauce. The wine list, though not particularly large, is delightful and priced benevolently. Service is as simple, rustic and comfortable as the small whitewashed rooms. And desserts - fruit tarts, puff pastries wothy of their calories - taste as fine after the meal as they look in the entry hall before the meal. Even the price is appealing - not cheap, but a very good buy for the quality. Now you can also buy quiches and tarts to take home so that you can enjoy Chez Francois the day after in reality, not just in memory.