Open Monday through Friday, 8 a.m. to 6 p.m. No credit cards. No reservations.

The signs at the Dutch Boy are more elaborate, insisting, "We cater office luncheons, Christmas partys [sic]," "Serving best sandwiches in town." They warn "No using rest rooms for public," "No brining own lunch," and "Due to shortage of seats from 11:00 a.m. to 2:00 p.m. every customer must place orders." But in reality, the Dutch Boy is not as fierce as it tries to sound. First, the outdoor tables: refreshing. Next, the red velvet and gilt-mirrored upstairs: more gaudy than bureaucratic. Third, the cafeteria line: the exuberant manager taking orders with a "Beautiful! Next!" The menu is the familiarly confusing array of deli, three-decker sandwiches and subs, most around $2 to $3, and you can get a half sandwich with a bowl of soup for $2.75. Good idea, because the soup is the best part. A close second is the rare roast beef, and the refrigerator has been known to hold fresh strawberries for dessert. The rest is pretty standard stuff - the turkey and salad more flaccid than one would like, the chopped liver bland and dry - but every so often you notice a touch - avocado in the salad, a homey flavor to the meat loaf - that puts the Dutch Boy back on your list.