Mother Love and Sacrifice-Late Sunday night, sometimes the only thing that will do is a taste of mother's chopped liver. If that's not available, Len's Mother's Chopped Liver will substitute perfectly well. It's at the Emporium on Capitol Hill, only on weekends, but the Emporium stays open to 11 p.m., even on Sunday.

Table Talk-Waitress at the Biltmore Ballroom: "The special tonight is chicken coq au vin. "I wonder what flavor coq au vin they serve on other nights?

This Week's Golden Fork Award-A diner at Enriqueta's was unfamiliar with chicken mole, but ordered it anyway. She found she didn't particularly like chicken mole, but ate enough to satisfy her hunger. The waiter refused to charge her for the dish, though she protested that it was her taste, rather than any inadequacy of the dish that was at fault. I found the same experience at Enriqueta's one day when I ate some excellent soup but left most of it to save room for my main course. The restaurant refused to charge me for the soup because I left it uneaten.

I Thought You'd Never Ask-At that fine little hamburger carryout Bon Appetit, if you want a rare hamburger, the server is likely to ask, "Very rare, or just rare?"