Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Sunday, 11:30 a.m. to 4 p.m. Major credit cards.

The congressional myth has it that our country's legislators work night and day and Sunday, too, on behalf of the public welfare. So public spirit sent me in search of the best Sunday brunches on Capitol Hill to refusel these seventh-day laborers. It looks, though, as if most of the Hill's Sunday laborers are waiters and cooks; it also looks as if have are serving the public welfare very well.

Nobody serves calories more packed with pleasure than the Man in the Green Hat on a Sunday. The danish is homemade and sets new standards among local restaurants. The Irish soda bread and corn bread are excellent. And for dessert, walnut pie makes you wonder why the pecan has gotten all the attention. The Man in the Green Hat is green and sunny, a clean-lined, noisy contemporary pub with extraordinarily personable service. Its brunch menu swings from mixed grill to Belgian waffles, and from $3 for just eggs to $6.25 for that mixed grill, which gets a mixed review. Imperfections mar a meal: the crepes are too thick, and the once-good quiche was burned in the reheating. But the food is fresh and pretty, often delicious and certainly imaginative. And even kids are treated well, with choices from peanut butter and jelly (75 cents) to waffles ($1.95).