Sunday 11 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. AE, MC, V.

The congressional myth has it that our country's legislators work night and day and Sunday, too, on behalf of the public welfare. So public spirit sent me in search of the best Sunday brunches on Capitol Hill to refuel these seventh-day laborers. It looks, though, as if most of the Hill's Sunday laborers are waiters and cooks; it also looks as if they are serving the public welfare very well.

The flowering branches, the contemporary tableware, the giant navy blue menus introduce the Broker's unique Sunday brunch. Meanu choices tend to be dinner-weight (veal fricasseed or curried, steak with bearnaise) but include crepes, smoked salmon and something benedict style -- maybe eggs, maybe mushrooms -- for an average of $7 including appetizer and dessert. Despite glaring flaws -- lukewarm Ramos gin fizz, too-thick crepes, pallid lobster sauce, slow kitchen, coffee cups left unfilled -- brunch is an impressive production. The appetizer is a picture-pretty plate with fish and meat pates and vibrant salads. Smoked salmon, perhaps the best main course, is similary artistic and good quality. Creamy wine-sauced chicken and shrimp would win if the pastry crust were rolled thinner and baked more thoroughly. Dessert is a delightful plate of tiny, homemade petits fours. The Broker is a world of grace and calm and pretty little things to eat.