Sunday, 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. No credit cards.

The congressional myth has it that our country's legislators work night and day and Sunday, too, on behalf of the public welfare. So public spirit sent me in search of the best Sunday brunches on Capitol Hill to refuel these seventh-day laborers. It looks, though, as if most of the Hill's Sunday laborers are waiters and cooks; it also looks as if they are serving the public welfare very well.

People are divided into those who want to sip their Sunday champagne from crystal tulips and those who prefer dime-store tumblers to go better with their jeans. Collbreeze's will comfort the latter; even the waiters shuffle around in Nikes with their shirttails out. Colbreeze's is a neighborhood bar lightly modernized, but with dumbwaiter, old brick and knotty pine paneling intact. Coolbreeze's also has old-fashioned ideas about price and quality, which make it a very popular neighborhood bar. Brunch is mostly omelets, fat ones hiding ham, marinated mushrooms, roasted peppers, provolone cheese, artichoke hearts, chili and all kinds of mostly Itallian combinations of at least four ingredients. Fresh asparagus floating in melted cheese and sour cream with mushrooms tastes like springtime. There is also garlicky shrimp in cheese and cream sauce with parsley. Besides those, try a Florentine Pirate, thick slices of ham and fried eggs on buttered, toasted English muffins, with mozzarella and chopped spinach highly seasoned with pickled peppers. The egg dishes come with homefried potatoes of no special merit and Italian toast. You can have eggs any style, or French toast which is eclipsed by the egg dishes. An a la carte supersweet rum bun is 50 cents, as are the tumblers of orange juice. The breakfasts average $3.25, give a lot for the money. Add an appetizer that is a fortunate ethnic mixture: toasted bagel with ricotta and chunks of ham.Plan to stretch out your morning; the bar is fully stocked, the waiters are friendly but slow, and though nobody offers to refill your coffee, it's a decent brew.