The only thing that visually distinguishes Marianna's from many other standard luncheonettes is the wine bottles lined up on the bar. They are the wine list; the waiter brings the bottles to your table to view, then goes to look up the price. The menu lists American food -- fried chicken, roast turkey, fried seafoods -- as well as Greek and a few Italian specials. And, while the cooking is largely ordinary, a few outstanding bargains are worth attention. Greek specials are overpriced compared to most of the menu, particularly since the souvlaki are overcooked and the spinach pies are dry. But the Greek appetizer is a meal in itself, stacked with cheese-filled filo triangles, taramasalata, two skewers of souvlaki, stuffed grape leaves, raw vegetables, a handful of good olives, and about a half pound of feta cheese. The most agreeable of the foods, though, are the rolls, homemade and crusty, a rare find. But what is ever more rare is the Sunday afternoon activity; if the demand is sufficient, the staff teaches Greek dancing in the upstairs party room.

Open Monday through Thursday, 8 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday, 8 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. MC, V. Reservations. Prices: Main courses at lunch, $1.35 to $4.95, at dinner $3.95 to $7.95.