Egg Rolling With the Punches -- Recently we tried a new little suburban Chinese restaurant for Sunday dim sum. And while we were told the dim sum chef had just left, we figured that all was not lost when the manager assured us the Hunanese chef was still there, and he recommended some special dishes. The menu prices were very reasonable, so we ordered luncheon for our group of nine adults and children. Overall the food was pretty good, with the kinds of lapses we expected from an inexpensive and underattended restaurant. And the portions were huge, so we wound up with voluminous leftovers. When we got the bill we saw why; the lunch worked out to $17 a person -- even though all we drank was tea -- because some of those specials were way above the menu's range, and the manager had taken it upon himself to give us double portions of several main dishes. If it was an expensive lesson for us, it is probably an even more expensive one for the restaurant. Nobody socked with such an unexpectedly hefty check is likely to return to an unimposing and middling Chinese restaurant. As a good value he could build clients; watery soup, doughy egg rolls and stringy duck can be forgiven in a $10 meal. But at those prices we would have been better off at the glamorous new Sichuan Garden.