Will there never be an end to the imagination of kitchen gadget makers?

Probably not, and a good thing too. What's Cooking! carries an appealing selection of gadgets. An oval ice cream scoop, useful if round ice cream becomes just too boring, can be used to form quenelles as well. Similarly versatile is the truffle cutter, which creates truffle slivers and chocolate shavings with equal dispatch. A an edger knife lets you carve pretty scallops along the edge of your cut watermelon or grapefruit. Then you can reload the hollowed-out melon with scalloped melon balls, made with your trusty scalloped baller. A garlic machine holds a few peeled garlic cloves in the refrigerator for two weeks or so, grating upon demand and not even letting the smell escape. There's a cork sharpener that makes shoving that wine cork back in easier. Can you bear to leave such a well-stocked home? If you can, you may wish to carry along your own pocket peppermill and small sack of whole peppercorns to grind. It would be a shame to have to lower your standards while you're away.

Oval ice cream scoop. $12.50. Truffle cutter. $7.50. Edging knife. $4.50. Scalloped melon baller. $9.50. Garlic machine. $14.50. Cork sharpener. $1.50. Pocket peppermill. $18.95. What's Cooking!, 1776 E. Jefferson St., Rockville. 881-2430.