A review of Jean-Louis at Watergate published Sept. 25 in the Dining Guide 1983 issue of The Magazine supplied erroneous information on the restaurant's prices and times of operation. Jean-Louis at Watergate is open for lunch Monday through Friday; it is open for dinner Monday through Saturday. The restaurant is closed Sunday. Lunch prices range from $19.50 to $40; dinner prices range from $25 to $95.
AT WATERGATE 2615 Virginia Ave. NW. 298-4488. L $6.25-$13.50, D $12.95-$27.50. B, L, D daily. Sunday Brunch. AE, MC, V. Res req. Free parking at dinner. Full bar.
For a year, since the closing of Le Pavillon, Jean- Louis has had little nouvelle challenge; but with Pavillon's reopening, the competition revives. Jean-Louis has used the past year wisely to intensify its style and improve the consistency of its cooking. Service is more finely honed, the wine list is vastly improved and Jean- Louis' cooking itself has grown more inventive in the use of American ingredients and more definite as a personal expression. Menus at four prices--$40 to $95-- allow considerable leeway to mix and match. Cold first courses--terrines of fresh foie gras, wild mushrooms, noodles, truffles--are gloriously beautiful, but the hot ones--scallops in coral butter, lobster in sauces of surprising flavors, vegetable custards with seafood garnishes--often carry more excitement to the tongue. Those in the middle--a warm salad with seafoods or other delicacies--can be the best of all. Jean-Louis' flavor palette is strong; he makes much of intense bell pepper flavors or herb essences. Though meat dishes are beautiful little tidbits of perfect baby lamb or veal, Jean- Louis is more tantalizing with fowl, whether duck breast turned ambrosia with dates, honey and cumin or squab's richness balanced with fresh sour cherries. And then there are the desserts, a veritable pastry shop on wheels, and at that, one of America's most exquisite and delicious.