It's a slice of the '60s, this small restaurant where, as a waitress told us, "Meat is a bad word." The dining room has a folksy look, and the menu cuts a wide ethnic swath from felafel (heavy and dry) to tostados (piled monumentally with beans, guacamole, cheese, sour cream and such), including several pasta dishes, omelets, fresh fish done in a changing variety of ways, tempura and saut,eed shrimp. There are stir-fried vegetables and even simpler vegetarian dishes, and excellent soups -- a brazenly spicy gazpacho and sumptuous mushroom broth on my last visit. Finally, there are special events, with guest chefs doing something macrobiotic or Indian or whatever surprise the management finds. And there is guitar music in the evenings, as well as an outdoor "garden" in good weather. The Kalorama Cafe has cooking that sometimes tastes more committed than delicious -- it can be heavy-handed. But it hits home-cooking highs, too. Prices are modest and a meal is friendly and a bit of bohemian nostalgia. 2228 18th St. NW. 667-1022. L $2.95-$4.95, D $6.50-$9.50. L daily ex Sat, Sun, D daily. Closed Mon. No credit cards. Beer and wine.