it is a market and wine bar as well, and even publishes a newsletter. The restaurant part of this small complex is upstairs, in a nice old high-ceiling building that might remind you of a graduate student apartment. There's a fireplace (unused) and a view of Connecticut Avenue (used), and not much space but a kind of casual handsomeness.

The menu is on a blackboard, though nowadays mimeographed as well, and is largely the kind of food that is found in very fancy carryouts these days: salads of chicken, pasta, radicchio, scallops or multicolored vegetables; homemade pates; fish or chicken with oriental or southwestern touches to the seasoning; a few peasanty dishes and a couple of luxury meats such as veal chops or filet mignon. And an astonishment of desserts is laid out on the sideboard.

Suzanne's is fun, even when it is crowded and slow; it is intensely urban, by now an established Dupont Circle scene. Its cooking is always commendable -- fresh, careful, and imaginative -- though it is prone to sound more interesting than it tastes. A spinach soup, for example, tasted of little but cream, and a chicken Santa Fe was pleasant but far short of the earthy seasoning that title suggests. At the same meal the hummus was just the right balance of lemon and garlic to spike the chickpeas, and a wild rice salad was as deftly and brightly seasoned as any rice salad I've had. Suzanne's heightens a meal with a very good little selection of wines by glass as well as bottle, and finishes with excellent desserts, including the most wondrous of chocolate-chestnut and chocolate-raspberry cakes. 1735 Connecticut Ave. NW. 483- 4633. L $5.50-$7.95, D $9.95- $13.95. L, D daily. Closed Sun. C, MC, V. Res sugg. Full bar.