Frances Kitching's house. $28 plus tax per adult for room (there are five bedrooms) and two meals, $14 for children under l2, which Mrs. Kitching says "doesn't include any tips. Anybody wants to tip, they do it. If they don't, they don't." Dinner only is $9 plus tax, half price for children. (301) 425-3321.

Pitchcroft Restaurant, run by Eloise Tyler, has one big dining room overlooking the water and four bedrooms, two with double beds. $28 per person for room and board, half-price for children under 12. Individual dinners are $10 for "seafood deluxe" and $8 for crab cakes, all you can eat. Children: half price. Open now past Labor Day. "If the fall is pretty, we stay open as late as the people come," said Eloise Tyler. (301) 425-5851.

Bernice Guy rents two bedrooms, one with a double bed, the other with twin beds, in the first floor of her Smith Island home. If full, her sister-in-law next door has a bedroom for use. She serves "all you can eat." Her prices match the rest. Ewell's three establishments all offer bed and board. "What stays with her she serves," explained Bernice Guy. There are no places to stay at Rhodes Point, or, as Mrs. Guy put it, "Nobody does it to the other part." Phone: (301) 425-2751.

(The folks who rent rooms and serve meals advise you to phone for reservations before you go.)

The Bayside Inn, owned by Alan and Dixie Tyler at Rhodes Point, does serve meals, however. Family-style dinners are $8 plus tax, half price for children under 12. For the roundtrip from Crisfield and a meal, there's a package price of $20 per person, $10 for children. The Captain Tyler, a tourist boat owned and operated by the family, leaves Somers Cove Marina in Crisfield at 12:30 p.m. and returns to the mainland by 5:15 p.m., Memorial Day through October. For reservations, phone (301) 425-2771.

From the Crisfield city dock, catch the Jason I, Jason II or the Island Belle at 12:30 p.m. They leave Smith Island at 4 p.m. for the return trip, head home again around 5 and depart from Ewell at eight in the morning. Roundtrip on the Jason I and II is $6 if by day or $8 if returning the following morning. The Island Belle fare is $5 roundtrip, $6 if overnight.