Visiting Meteora today is relatively simple. Anyone who can climb the stairs may visit the monasteries -- though the priests require visitors to dress conservatively. Women may not wear pants or sleeveless dresses, and men may not wear shorts.

Most monasteries are open 8 a.m. to noon and 3 to 6 p.m., six days a week, but the day of closure varies among them. Admission to each is about 50 cents. Photos are not allowed in the churches and some other parts of the monasteries; check first.

GETTING THERE: Meteora is about 200 miles northwest of Athens, 100 miles southwest of Thessaloni'ki. The nearest town of consequence is Kalamba'ka.

Many tours of Greece routinely include Meteora in their itineraries. But if you want to go on your own, rail and bus service are available from Athens or Thessaloni'ki to Kalamba'ka. In summer, city buses leave Kalamba'ka for Great Meteoron four times a day, less often the rest of the year.

Olympic and Trans World Airlines offer daily service from New York to Athens, with frequent connections to Thessaloni'ki.

WHERE TO STAY: Most visitors go to Meteora on a day trip from Thessaloni'ki. But if you want to spend the night in Kalamba'ka, two comfortable places to stay are the Motel Divani and Xenia.

INFORMATION: Greek National Tourist Organization, Olympic Tower, 645 Fifth Ave., 5th Floor, New York, N.Y. 10022, (212) 421-5777.