MY NOW-ANNUAL TRIP to Lozier's Box R Ranch in Cora, Wyo., began as a one-time trip in the summer of 1993. What a treat! I got the same horse all week, moved cattle from one pasture to another, checked for sick cows, even got up to start moving cattle at 5 a.m. onto federal grazing land. I reserved a trip for the following summer--and have been going back ever since.

I'm treated like family by the owners (as are all the guests). Sometimes I get the same horse from year to year, and sometimes even the same cabin. I've been pulled off an orientation ride to go into the wilderness to pick up some packers because "you've done that ride before, hon."

The scenery also keeps me coming back. When I turn off the paved road and climb that first hill, the sight of the snow-capped Wind River Range always takes my breath away. And when I make that last turn and see the ranch house, I feel like I've come home. I can sit on my cabin porch and read a book in the afternoon, or watch a gorgeous sunset in the evening. Sometimes I go for a walk after dinner--perhaps to the ruins of the original homestead cabin on the ranch land.

The Box R is one of the few places I've found to be better than the advertising. It's a real working ranch, not a dude resort. It's a bit of a letdown when I have to leave, but I always look forward to next year's visit.

JODY CARLSON

Fairfax

Lozier's Box R Ranch, 1-800-822-8466, www.boxr.com.