A VISIT TO Glacier National Park reveals a land of high mountains; clear lakes and streams; forests of fir, hemlock and spruce--and those delicious smells.

Lake McDonald Lodge is one of several rustic lodges in the park built by the Great Northern Rail- way in the early 1900s. Red tour buses, probably 1930s vintage, are still used to transport guests to the Going-to-the-Sun Highway, which traverses the park from east to west. In July, our children and grandchildren could slide down the snowbanks adjoining the highway.

Apgar Village Lodge, also inside the park, is at the mouth of McDonald Creek, where it empties into McDonald Lake. The cabins and motel units are nestled among fir trees and are reasonably priced. Guests can venture into the water, but they have to be hearty souls; the waters are very cold, even in summer.

During our first visit, in 1962, our 5-year-old son planned to spend the night with the older boys in a tent--until he saw a grizzly bear foraging for trash containers. He quickly scurried back into the cabin. We always have a pleasant vacation in the cool green area, and look forward to additional visits.

ROBERT F. LAUDWEIN

Damascus, Md.

Glacier National Park, www.nps.gov/glac, 406-888-7800.