WHAT: "Sons et Lumieres" (Sound and Light) at Paris's Centre Pompidou.

WHEN: Sept. 22-Jan. 3.

WHY GO: Showcasing some 400 works, this retrospective examines the relationship between sound, music and the visual arts since the turn of the 20th century. From expressionist painters to multimedia pioneers to iconoclastic composers, artists include Paul Klee, Vassily Kandinsky, Jackson Pollock, Marcel Duchamp and John Cage.

DON'T MISS . . . Klee's "Fugue in Red" (1921), which represents an attempt to translate musical concepts into abstract painting. More radically, Cage's "Water Music" (1952) employs natural sounds and random noises to redefine ideas about music and performance.

ADMISSION: $11 for "Sons" only; a $12 pass grants access to the rest of the museum.

SLEEPS AND EATS: For slumber in the coolest contemporary digs, check out Pershing Hall (49 Rue Pierre Charron, 011-33-1-58-36-58-00, www.pershinghall.com; doubles from $470), featuring a white-on-white decor and a lounge that draws top deejays. To dip into Paris's arty past, consider the more basic Hotel Regyn's Montmartre (18 Place des Abbesses, 011-33-1-42-54-45-21, www.regynsmontmartre.com; from $95). Its Montmartre location puts you in the quarter that van Gogh, Picasso and other painters once called home.

To dine in one of the city's latest design experiments, try the glass-enclosed, Philippe Starck-conceived Kong (1 Rue du Pont Neuf), atop the trendy Kenzo store.

PACKAGES: Air/hotel packages to Paris are often available through France Vacations (800-332-5332, www.francevacations.net), EuropeASAP (415-750-5449, www.europeasap.com) and other discounters. Go-Today (425-487-9632, www.go-today.com), for example, has a three-night "Paris Thanksgiving Getaway" from D.C. starting at $549 per person double; book by Sept. 29.

INFO: 011-33-1-44-78-12-33, www.centrepompidou.fr. Metro: Rambuteau.

-- Seth Sherwood