GETTING THERE: Nonstop flights to Paris from Dulles are running $545 through Expedia, on Air France, United and Delta, for early December travel. For $508, US Airways flies from Reagan National, with one stop.

WHERE TO STAY: Le General Hotel (5-7 Rue Rampon, 011-33-1-47- 00-4157, www.legeneralhotel.com), tucked away on an unassuming side street boasting a hammock store and an Indian restaurant, is a sleek city oasis with a chic bar, free WiFi and a gym. Rates start at $193 per night double.

For the well-heeled in search of luxe modernity, Hotel Murano (13 Blvd. du Temple, 011-33-1-4271-2000, www.muranoresort.com) bills itself as an "urban resort" and features a vodka bar in the lobby and monochromatic room designs with six colors to choose from. Rooms run from $480 to $785 per night double.

WHERE TO EAT, DRINK AND DANCE:

* Cafe Charbon/Nouveau Casino, 109 Rue Oberkampf; Metro: Parmentier. Beer from $6; admission to concerts usually about $12.

* Le Pure Cafe, 14 Rue Jean Mace; Metro: Faidherbe-Chaligny. Coffee, $2.40; lunch menu, $18.

* La Fee Verte, 108 Rue de la Roquette; Metro: Voltaire. Coffee, $2.40; large salads, $10.85; entrees, $14.50.

* La Caravane, 35 Rue de la Fontaine au Roi; Metro: Goncourt. Coffee, $1.55; lunch menu, $14.50.

* Le Pop In, 105 Rue Amelot; Metro: Filles du Calvaire. Pitcher of beer, $10.85.

WHERE TO SHOP: Sissi Holleis (3 Rue de Nemours; Metro: Parmentier) has women's and children's clothing running from $24 to $300. Nuits de Satin (9 Rue Oberkampf; Metro: Filles du Calvaire) features vintage lingerie; a corset costs about $95.

No. 44-II (59 Rue Jean-Pierre Timbaud; Metro: Parmentier) is the only non-Tokyo branch of the Japanese boutique; a shirt runs about $180.

INFORMATION: Paris Convention and Visitors Bureau, http://en.parisinfo.com.

-- Rory Satran