GETTING THERE:The flight from Washington to Toronto takes anywhere from 50 minutes to an hour and a half, depending on the tail wind. Air Canada and United offer nonstop service, with round-trip fares from $250.

To access the PATH, look for the colored logo outside specific buildings or enter through such subway stations as Union Station. The PATH map also shows entry points.

WHERE TO STAY:Six major hotels are part of the PATH plan -- no outside entry required. I stayed at the Hilton(145 Richmond St. W., 416-869-3456, http://www.hilton.com), on the west side of the underground system. The hotel has a pool, fitness center, Ruth's Chris steakhouse and bar. Rates from $150 (U.S.) double. Just around the bend is the Sheraton Centre(123 Queen St. W., 416-361-1000, http://www.starwoodhotels.com/sheraton/index.html), where rooms start at $150 double. The grande dame of hotels is the Fairmont Royal York(100 Front St. W., 800-257-7544, http://www.fairmont.com/royalyork), an elegant property built in 1929. Whether you stay there or not, be sure to view the old photographs on the lobby's second level. Rates from $230.

WHERE TO EAT:Besides food courts and other mall fare, you can sample some of the finest cuisine in Toronto without leaving the underground. Canoe (66 Wellington St. W., 416-364-0054) sits on the 54th floor of the TF Bank Tower, overlooking the lake. Try the wild mushroom soup ($8), Yarmouth scallops ($22) and bison tenderloin ($38).

ByMark (66 Wellington St. W., 416-777-1144) is known for its incredibly pricey hamburger ($32), topped with brie and truffles. Other dishes include foie gras with Yorkshire pudding ($22) and roasted Ontario pickerel ($34). For drinks, head upstairs to its swank bar, with great views of the street.

On the opposite end of the PATH, Spring Rolls by Thai Pan(40 Dundas St. W., 416-585-2929) serves standard Asian fare. Dishes include pad thai (from $6), noodle soups (from $5) and rice platters (from $6).

WHAT TO DO:Learn about the country's favorite pastime at the Hockey Hall of Fame(Yonge and Front streets in BCE Place, 416-360-7735, http://www.hhof.com; $11), or catch a live game or concert at the Air Canada Centre(York and Bay streets, 416-815-5500, http://www.theaircanadacentre.com). Take a self-guided tour of City Hall(100 Queen St. W., 416-338-0338); print out a guide at http://www.toronto.ca/accesstoronto/self_guided_tour.htm. Go as high as you can in the CN Tower(north of Bremner Boulevard on Front Street W., 416-868-6937, http://www.cntower.ca/portal; from $28).

INFO:Tourism Toronto, 800-499-2514, http://www.torontotourism.com/visitor. Download the PATH map at http://www.toronto.ca/path.

-- Andrea Sachs