"Mame" still bubbles like the glass of champagne the familiar "Auntie" whisks from Manhattan to Hindustan and from a Georgia plantation to the Alps, and it all really happens at the Lazy Susan Dinner Theater in Woodbridge.

Enduring the test of time and the adaptation to a small but well-used stage, the musical crackles with laugh lines unsoftened by 20 years and quickens a healthy nostalgia about America's past: boom to depression and back.

Renee Rogoff as Mame never mimics here predecessors' triumphs (Angela Lansbury, Rosalind Russell). With a clarity of spirit and fine respect for timing, she sets the pace for the entire evening, stimulating laughter with her interminable frivolity, yet rendering a moment of pathos when she sings "If He Walked Into My Life."

Shawn Doyle as her nephew Patrick performs so sensitively against Ragoff that it is a shame to see the pre-adolescent grow to manhood, giving over his role to Ken Street, who has difficulty carrying it off. Laurette Handkins, however, playing the hilarious unwed mother-to-be, Agnes Gooch, demonstrates the same professional qualities as Rogoff.

In short, little detracts from a thoroughly enjoyable evening: a tantalizing Pennsylvania Dutch buffet and a bubbling production. "Mame" continues through Dec. 11.