Atmosphere: Proper but not at all stuffy.

Price Range: Complete dinners from a daily $4.25 special on up to a $9.45 filet miignon, with all children's orders 25 per cent less.

Hours: Mondays through Saturdays, noon to11 p.m., closed Sundays.

Special Facilities: Accessible by wheelchair. High chairs and booster seats.

TFree parking lot in backk.

Reservations: Not necessary.

Credit Cards: BankAmericard, Master Charge, NAC, Visa.

Back in its good days, the cafe Burgundy on upper Connecticut Avenue always seemed just a trifle staid for us likds, but we learrned to mind our peas and cukes in anticipation of a wholesome, tasty meal every time.

But years later, the place changed hands and - based on one grim, aborted visit last summer when we didn't even stay long enough to order - the results were disappointing, to put it mildly. But then the doors finally closed with a sign promising a reopening some day under a different management.

Today, we're pleased to report, that different management is really the same old one that ran the place so smoothly for some 20 years before selling it about three years ago: Mr. and Mrs. Ray Walters.

Moreover, the word is spreading fast around that neighborhood, and once again the Walters touch has the two dining rooms there bustling with the traditional loyal customers of yore.

Although there is a goodly number of families on hand, any child can tell at a glance that this isn't exactly the romper room of restaurants. Now, as before, the Burgundy is the darling of the gray-power set, and more power to 'em. Besides, they don't seem to mind the kids one bit.

There's nothing terribly wild about the decor, either. The walls in the main room are - you guessed it - burgundy, broken up only here and there by a little cluster of framed, faded farm scenes, odd magazine covers, a coach laamp or somesuch. The only decorative wild fling is overhead, where the ligth fixtures are fairly dripping with plastic grapes.

Only seconds after scrunching up to the gold tablecloth, out 11-year-old son and 8-year-old daughter were put at ease by a young waitress who scored points with the right combination of comliments, quips and winks.

She also rustled up a quick pair of snappy Shirley Temples for them, as wekk as two pacifiers in salt-rimmed glasses for the parents.

For any child, the menu is a catalogue of cam't-miss, all-American winners, from sand wiches to hearty platers. And each childrenn's order goes for 25 per cent less than the adult price, although the portions don't seem at all discounted.

In addition to a daily dinner special for $4.25, regular prices for complete dinners are mostly in the $5.50 to $6.95 range, and that includes a choice from a solid list of appetizers, the entree, teo vegetables, dessert and coffee, tea or milk.

All eyes fixed first on two soups - vichysoisse for mother and daughter and French onion au gratin for son and me. but our daughter, after a game dip into her chilly pool of soup, negotiated a straight trade with me for the onion jackpot.

She chose wisely in the entree department, snagging an enormous portion of roast stuffed turkey in gooey-good gravy, with respectable-looking fries and a tossed salad with Italian drssing, for $5.21.

Our son, meanwhile, was reveling in golden jumbo fried shrimp, cocktail sauce and lots of those fries, for $5.59.

The dish that got four stars this trip was my wife's selection of backfin lump crabmeat au gratin, which was delicately seasoned and cooked perfectly, along with mashed potatoes and a mixed salad with creamy French bleu cheese dressing, at $7.45.

My agenda was breaded veal cutlet with sauce bordelaise, at $7.45; the veal itself was fine but the sauce was borderline-bordelaise and frankly boring.I swabbed it around with mashed potatoes and some good spinach, however.

The impressive list of desserts included Boston cream pie and apple pie, but along with that first wave of customers, they were both gone for the night. So instead of this preferred stock, we opted for a common sharing of layer cake and ice cream, along with two coffees.

The reasonable touch for this gentle evening totaled $28 plus tip. And because our menu for this particular occasion was pegged at slightly higher holiday rates, the price of each menu selection is now about $1 to $1.50 lower.

At any rate, you should know that the comeback of the Cafe Burgundy has developed into a warm reunion with its old friends around the neighborhood.