The Tung Bor has gotten much acclaim for the dim sum it serves at lunch. This is an orgy of Chinese pastries and other appetizers - steamed and fried dumplings in the lightest of doughs, tiny barbecued ribs, airy shrimp toast and even radish cakes. Customers can choose any of 29 such delicacies, and having consumed as many as humanly possible, can move on to pastries filled with sweet custards.Nearly all the goodies, sweet or salty, cost 90 cents. Although the Tung Bor's fame seems to center on its midday dim sum, we wondered what it served the rest of the time. Our family went there on a plain old Wednesday night, and it was clear the Tung Bor puts as much effort into its "regular" fare as it does into its dim sum specialties. Except for some splashy, be-tasseled lanterns, the decor at the Tung Bor is of the no-nonsense, keep-it-simple school. Hot tea was brought along with our menus which, in the manner of those found in most Asian restaurants, ran to several pages. To be exact, there were 35 seafood entries, 10 duck, four squab, 15 beef, 11 pork, 10 noodle and 15 bean curd and non-meat dishes. Most cost between $3.50 and $7, but if you're feeling flush, you can have Peking Duck for $18. The indecisive can eliminate hard choices by ordering combination, family-style dinners. For $14, a couple can get won ton soup, egg rolls, fried rice, butterfly shrimp and sweet and sour pork, and then can compare advice from their fortune cookies. The largest combination is for six people, costs $42 and provides shredded beef, Peking ribs, lemon chicken and shrimp as the main dishes. We had tonga chicken, $2, as a starter. The pieces of white meat are curled up in a crisp, light batter with pineapple chunks served on the side. Our two daughters could not give up the idea of having egg rolls which were wrapped in several layers of very thin pastry dough. The filling was well-seasoned. Rarely have we left a Chinese restaurant without a bagful of paper containers filled with leftovers. This time we ordered three entrees for the four of us - and still would up with leftovers. All three entrees were beautifully done. The sauces were seasoned appropriately and were refreshingly unsticky. Both the children, ages 8 and 11, liked the beef with snow peas; $4.75, the best. The vegetables, which also included carrots and mushrooms, were fresh and crunchy. I thought the prize winner was the lo mein with chicken, beef, pork and shrimp for $3.75. Lo mein is a type of pasta and is considered a lowly meal in some quarters. In this case, the noodles, almost as thin as button thread, were grabbed off the burner at the right moment; the strips of meat and mushrooms were actually visible, and the whole business was backed up with a sauce that had a subtle touch of ginger. The most exotic dish we ordered, duch with four treasures, $7.95, was the least popular, mainly because some of the treasures (and there were a lot more than four) were too sophisticated for children's tastes. In fact, the adults had a little trouble with some of the treasures like fish gills and squid, which in this case was tough. The duck was fine as were the shrimp, abalone, scallops and vegetables also included in this colorful creation. It was obviously put together by someone who not only cares about taste but has an eye for how something should look on a serving plate. The Tung Bor, which opened in Wheaton last October, seems to make a real effort to add new flavors to traditional Cantonese dishes - most tasted quite different (and better) than those you find elsewhere. Only the fortune cookies were the same. Our bill which10056

Hours 11:30a.m. to 9:30p.m. Tuesday through Friday; 11 a.m. to 3 p.m. for lunch and 4:45 p.m. to 10:30 p.m. for dinner for Saturday and Sunday. Closed Monday.

Atmosphere: Simple decor; peaceful during the week, more hectic on week ends.

Price range: Luncheon combinations, $3.25; Dim sum (Chinese pastries and appetizers), 90 cents. Dinners, mostly between $3.75 and $7; some specialities as high as $18.

Special facilities: Parking lot. Persons in wheelchairs can be accommodated.

Reservations: Not accepted on week ends.

Credit cards: Visa and Master Charge.