Hours: Mondays through Saturdays from 7 a.m. to 10 p.m.: closed Sundays.

Atmosphere: Plain and friendly; nothing elaborate here, not even the prices.

Price Range: From a soup-salad-and-hard-roll combination for $1.50 to a respectable steak for $4.40.

Credit Cards: American Express.

Reservations: Just drop in when you're in the neighborhood.

Special Facilities: Accessible by wheelchair. Seating for small children can be arranged. As for parking in this neighborhood, it's easier to curb your appetite than your car.

All right - you've just checked the name of our spot for today's column and have doubts about anything called "Kozy Korner." But if the food is passable, need we kare?

Besides, we'd already checked out and checked off another spot in this Dupont Circle area as being low on options and not at all low on prices - and at least four of the family's eight legs were starting to give out after a hike from what must have been the line remaining parking space within a five-mile radius.

I was elected to conduct the Preliminary Peek. I then gave the high-sign for an invasion, basing this considered judgment on a delicate presumption that even if it doesn't look all that fancy it's probably more folksy than fleecy.

Perhaps just this once my hunch would hold up, for right away there was encouragement from our 11-year-old son. "Looks like my kind of place," he volunteered. "Mustard and ketchup bottles already on the table."

Yep, it's that kind of place, a neat if unextraordinary little room full of nooks with small, unclothed tables bunched under what today have become standard-issue tiffany lamps. Up front, there's an L-shaped counter that doubles as a bar. Above it hangs a modest collection of low-gloss copper.

All round, the decor is a sort-texture war, with some of that phony stone-work here and there, brick design in other places, a metal-grill divider, several stiff paintings and, on the wall that we were tucked against over near the door, a mirrow in which most of what you see is a sign saying, "o'Connell & Flynn Irish Whiskey."

So alarmingly pleasant was the waitress that we feared maybe she was on to our act - that is, until we watched her with the handful of other people who were around the room on this mid-week evening. They, too, were being treated to good cheer and lickety-split service.

Came the colas for the kids, and for their elders a pair of draft beers in frosty-frozen mugs. The homemade soup of the day, at 80 cents, had our children interested, for they do like chicken. But since neither of them had ever seen a live gumbo, they backed off.

I didn't and as it turned out, our 9-year-old daughter went into one of her baby-bird-open-mouth routines to request a taste. And then another taste. And another. Her brother tried it once and gave a polite shrug of indifference.

The clip-on special of the day was attractively priced, though it drew no takers in our foursome; beef burgundy over noodles, for $2.95. Alson on the menu were sandwiches, from liverwurst or salami at $1.70 on up to shrimp salad, at $2.65.

Salads are many here, with a soup-salad-and-hard roll listing at $1.50 and various other green productions from $2.75 to $3.50.

For us, though, it was a matter of platters: My wife found no quarrel with a filet of flounder, which came with some of those steak-house fries (the thicker ones), as well as cole slaw and a tomato, for $3.05.

When $3.80 gets you a roast beef platter with mashed potatoes and a salad, I can go for it - and I did. So did our daughter, and neither of us was at all sorry. Each serving was three thin but large slices of rare meat.

The real topic of conversation for all of us except our son - whose mouth was too busy to talk - was his 8-ounce, charbroiled, rare sirloin. For $4.40 you don't really expect a thick and tender steak with fries and a salad. We did, however, expect some offers of tastes, but I for one don't recall being given a chance to say yes.

By now there was quite a clutter of dishes on our little table - to the point where the waitress offered to stash our four plates of bread and butter and other glass and crockery on the empty table a couple of inches over from us.

After clearance for desert, the kids found space on the table as well as inwardly to split a 75-cent slice of good-old apple pie. This excess brought the total bill to $20.52 plus tip - hardly a family budget-buster.

Indeed, for just plain, solid food - the kind kids take to, in a place they can be taken to - the Kozy Korner is worth a turn if you're in its vicinity.