Atmosphere: Eat-in, carry-out pizzeria with Greek specialties.

Hours: Sunday through Thursday 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Friday and Saturday 11 a.m. to midnight.

Price Range: $2.50 to $7.95 for pizza; $1.25 to $3.25 for salads; less than $5 for most entrees; $2.20 for most subs.

Reservations: Not necessary.

Credit Cards: Visa and Master Charge.

Special Features: Booster seats; accessible to handicapped; full carry-out; accessible to the handicapped.

There is a little Greek place out at Bailey's Crossroads called Dino's, where the pizza is terrific, the prices right and the service a pleasure. But unless you had already heard about Dino's, it is unlikely, upon approaching it, that you would rush in.

Dino's white exterior shrinks beneath a huge neon sign on which the name Dino's takes second place to the words New York Pizza, and its front door opens into the parking lot on the building's back side.

Inside, Dino's is clean, bright and carpeted, three walls adorned with an assortment of large paintings, the fourth, behind the counter, hung with a roomwide menu board. Some of the formica tables are singles, others paired or readily movable into crowd- or family-size lengths.

There were nine of us, three adults and six children, so we placed them at the far end of one long put-together table, and thus successfully avoided that agonizing ritual of choosing the size and flavor of pizza for the children to share.

Celebrating this bit of our own cleverness over a half-carafe of a light retsina wine, we chose souvlakia, a small Greek salad, eggplant parmesan and a meatball sub.

The souvlakia ($4.35) -- skewered grilled lamb, cucumbers, tomatoes, a garlic-laced yogurt sauce and shredded cucumbers on a round of flatbread sweating olive oil -- was pronounced by one participating authority: "Just like I used to buy on the street in Athens." High praise. It was served with a Kaiser roll which lay on a paper napkin in a red plastic basket.

The salad ($1.95), not so small after all, was studded with ripe olives and tossed with coarsely crumbled, good quality feta cheese and a sharp oil and vinegar dressing.

Souvlakia and shishkebab with rice ($6.85) are the only Greek entrees on the menue which includes sirloin steak, whole or chopped, fried shrimp and fried chicken.

Among the Italian entrees, lasagne and spaghetti lead the list.The eggplant parmesan ($3.95) was undercooked and tasted flat in its batter-fried crust. It was drowned in a watery tomato sauce and laid to rest on a bed of respectable spaghetti in one of those little steel oven dishes that are typically too hot to hold while you cut.

The meatballs in the meatball sub ($2.20) were small and mushy, and the tomato sauce had disappeared into the tender white dough of a spongy, sandwich-bread roll.

The children were ecstatic -- not to mention smug -- about their choices. Two of them settled on a small pizza with everything ($4.95), while the other four feasted on a large pizza piled high with mushrooms, pepperoni and sausage ($7.95).

The pizza had a firm, chewy crust and just enough tart sauce and cheese. An immense side order of hot, crisp, tender french fries, sliced medium-thick, made the rounds at the other end of the table and was grudgingly offered to our end.

Dino's has two desserts and needs no more. Its cheesecake is World's Best, now pretty standard restaurant fare but always good, while its three-inch-high homemade baklava may well be the world's best.

Among at least a million layers of crisp filo pastry nestle mounds of finely chopped walnuts, and the whole thing glistens -- just short of dripping -- with sweet, thin syrup. Bliss.